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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary achievement.